A decidedly more relaxed pace was decided upon today, since yesterday we were simply exhausted, and even 8 hours of sleep didn't rejuvenate. So, after a nice breakfast at the hotel, we made our way into town at a leisurely pace. We had a false start as I realized I left my camera and credit cards back in the room, so we walked back to the hotel and started the day again. First up, we made our way to the Groeninge Museum, which is ostensibly the museum in town to see. For the period we're in town the permanent collection (which consists mainly of Flemish primitives) was not on display -- instead we were treated to a special installation of Karel de Stoute (Charles the Bold), who reigned over the region in the 15th century. following that, we had a nice lunch in a central square, then made our way to the Church of Our Lady for the second part of the exhibit, and some fine church art and tombs to boot. Also featuring Michaelangelo's Madonna and Child, and the tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter, Mary of Burgundy (the Duchesse of Borgnone for you beer fans).
Speaking of beer, it was off to the Brouwerij De Halve Maan for a pint of their Tripel (Straffe Hendrick) -- wonderful! After resting our bones, we made the trek back up north to spend the evening relaxing at a place that would serve us good food and beer. And we found it in the Bierbrasserie Cambrinus, with over 400 beers available. While watching the Men's Wimbledon Final play out live (holy cow, 30 games in the final set!) we sipped on a variety of incredibly delightful brews, including the much-sought-after Westvleteren trappist beers. I had an 8 (their dubbel), followed by a 12 (their quadrupel).
Both were delightful, each with its own complexities to decipher. I may be committing heresy here, but I can say in all honesty they're not the best beers I've ever had. I know, I know, some will say I'm losing beer credibility by saying this, and I can accept that. But let me be clear. I'm not saying they're not good. They are. And their rarity alone makes it worthwhile to try them if you ever get the opportunity. But, in each case, I've found something else in the style I like better.
The Westvleteren 8 pours a dark brown, with a rich head that reduces down to a few millimeters after a few minutes. But the head stays with the beer the whole way down the glass. It's very impressive! The aroma is delightfully complex, bringing all of it's character to the nose. I found the flavor profile nicely masked the alcohol, so it didn't feel like you were drinking an 8% beer. A nice bitter finish on this one.
The 12 poured even darker, and its nose gave no hints what lay beneath. Sweetness rode the front of the liquid, followed by caramel and roasted malts. No real bitterness to my tongue, but the variety of flavors again masked the alcohol -- this one at just over 10%. It reminded me of a stronger version of Dogfish Head's Raison D'être. Totally worth the €6.75 for the bottle, and please try it if you get the opportunity.
But, I'll admit it, having had Ommegang's Three Philosopher's, I'm not sure I've ever tasted a better quadrupel. And Maredsous's much easter to find Dubbel is, IMHO, as fine a dubbel as Westvleteren. Not as uinque, I'll grant you.
I guess if you get the opportunity to try the Westvletern, take it, savor it, enjoy it, and remember that you're tasting what few get to. But if it's not the best beer in the world, don't beat yourself up over it -- you're not alone.
A short walk later, and we retire to the hotel at around 9ish. Tomorrow, we check out, and make our way to Brussels!
Pics here.
Air conditioning is not prevalent here. Though once the sun drops, it gets quite pleasant out, so we kept our window open. Mind you, the sun drops rather late -- as I write this it's 10:40 in the evening, and it's twilight outside. The sun is still shining brightly at 9:00 PM. It's weird, but I love it.
Anyway, the downside to leaving the windows open at night is that they're open in the morning. When you have an east facing room, this is important. At 8AM, I awoke to the sun beating on my face. There are worse things you can have beating on your face when you wake up, so I counted myself lucky and began the day.
After a nice breakfast in the restaurant downstairs, we hiked our way north into the city. Brugge is a beautiful place -- very old city with narrow cobblestone streets. In many ways, it reminded me of Vieux Québec, which is certainly backwards, but there's where I first visited. We walked north through the city until we reached Markt Square. From there, we engaged in a mini city walk -- I say 'mini' since it was abbreviated by what seemed like a large number of weddings going on at the church in Burg Square, and a lack of interest in the paintings in the museums here. Still, it was a beautiful walk, and the scenery is simply delightful.
Upon reaching the canal, we took a 30 minute canal tour on a boat. It was a nice way to both see the city from an angle one does not easily get, and to beat the heat since the breeze from the boat on the water was simply fantastic. After the boat tour, we made our way through various streets and alleys to the south end of the city , whereupon we decided we were ready for lunch.
Remember this -- when having a meal in Europe, plan at least two hours. It's a nice relaxed pace here, but it can seem slow if you're not expecting it. By the time our lunch was done, it was 3:00, and we took the tour at Half Moon Brewery, the only local brewery in Brugge. They produce three beers -- a golden ale (6%), a dubbel that's darker (7.5%) and a tripel at 9%. I tried both the golden and the dubbel, will try the tripel tomorrow.
The tour was neat -- we got to see the 'historic' brewery, no longer operational and everything beyond primary fermentation now happens offsite. Still, we got to climb lots of stairs, see the view from the roof of the brewery, and taste some grains.
After the tour, we decided to make our way to Beertje, a pub that has been universally recommended -- they have over 300 beers. At least, that's what I read. I cannot confirm any of this, since we learned upon arrival at the pub that they are closed from late June to July 8 so the employees can go on holiday. It seems an odd time to close, since I imagine it's a top tourist destination, and we are most definitely in tourist season here.
So, alas, no Beertje for me. But since we'd already made our way to the north of the city again, we looked for another beer destination. Next on my list of good beer pubs is De Garre, which was not too far, so we made our way there. Finding the first floor full, we made our way upstairs, found a table, and in minutes were enjoying the house tripel. We were also fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of a lovely couple from Athens, GA at the adjacent table who were on the tail end of their European adventure, and celebrating their engagement (congrats Dustin & Kristin!) Dustin's a beer guy, who works for Terrapin Brewery in Athens, a place whose beer I hope to sample some day soon.
We whiled away the hours talking about everything beer and Europe, and before I knew it, it was 7:30, I'd had many, many, fine beers, and we were thinking of supper. So, we wandered east to a wonderful Pasta Restaurant (Pili Pili), where we enjoyed fine pasta, more beer, and some great desserts.
Eventually, realizing it was 10:00, we decided to make the long walk back south to our hotel. And now, here I sit, watching the sky slowly dim as it approaches 11PM. Off to sleep, and another Belgian adventure tomorrow!
Pictures here.
Our first day in Europe was a travel day, in the truest sense of the word. It began with us waking up on July 2, looking at the news, and seeing United was canceling flights left and right because their check-in system at O'Hare was on the fritz. United's official line on it was to check-in online. That's all well and good, and I had indeed checked in online the previous night, but it doesn't do me any good if they up and cancel the flight I was going to take.
Happily, the problems were sorted out by afternoon, and by the time we go to the airport for our 9:15 flight, things had returned to normal, thankfully.
We hopped on the plane, a nicely equipped 767 with fancy schmancy business class lay-flat seats (which we were fortunate enough to be flying), and after a short delay we were in the air. The flight was nicely uneventful -- I watched Watchmen, had dinner, then lay down to sleep. Four hours later, we were beginning our descent into London.
Now, originally, our plan was to go from London to Dover (via train), hop a ferry to Calais, France, and spend the night, catching a train to Brugge the next morning. Alas, Calais was looking kind of booked, so I got us booked into a hotel in Brugge (Boathotel De Barge -- yes, it's a boat). But once I started working it all out, it was looking like we'd be frantically making our way to Brugge via train and ferry, and one missed connection meant a very late arrival.
Well, I've had enough of those types of things in my travels, and prefer to spend my vacations relaxing as much as possible. So, I found us a flight from London to Brussels for a reasonable price on British Airways and booked that. Upon our arrival at LHR, we simply made our way to Terminal 5, waited an hour, then boarded a very empty plane to Brussels. Then, arriving at Brussels, it was an 80 minute train ride, with one quick transfer, and we were in Brugge, about a 10 minute walk from the hotel.
We enjoyed a nice, though large and expensive, meal at the hotel before retiring to our 'cabin'.