A decidedly more relaxed pace was decided upon today, since yesterday we were simply exhausted, and even 8 hours of sleep didn't rejuvenate.  So, after a nice breakfast at the hotel, we made our way into town at a leisurely pace.  We had a false start as I realized I left my camera and credit cards back in the room, so we walked back to the hotel and started the day again.  First up, we made our way to the Groeninge Museum, which is ostensibly the museum in town to see.  For the period we're in town the permanent collection (which consists mainly of Flemish primitives) was not on display -- instead we were treated to a special installation of Karel de Stoute (Charles the Bold), who reigned over the region in the 15th century.  following that, we had a nice lunch in a central square, then made our way to the Church of Our Lady for the second part of the exhibit, and some fine church art and tombs to boot.  Also featuring Michaelangelo's Madonna and Child, and the tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter, Mary of Burgundy (the Duchesse of Borgnone for you beer fans).

Speaking of beer, it was off to the Brouwerij De Halve Maan for a pint of their Tripel (Straffe Hendrick) -- wonderful!  After resting our bones, we made the trek back up north to spend the evening relaxing at a place that would serve us good food and beer.  And we found it in the Bierbrasserie Cambrinus, with over 400 beers available.  While watching the Men's Wimbledon Final play out live (holy cow, 30 games in the final set!) we sipped on a variety of incredibly delightful brews, including the much-sought-after Westvleteren trappist beers.  I had an 8 (their dubbel), followed by a 12 (their quadrupel).

Both were delightful, each with its own complexities to decipher.  I may be committing heresy here, but I can say in all honesty they're not the best beers I've ever had.  I know, I know, some will say I'm losing beer credibility by saying this, and I can accept that.  But let me be clear.  I'm not saying they're not good.  They are.  And their rarity alone makes it worthwhile to try them if you ever get the opportunity.  But, in each case, I've found something else in the style I like better.

The Westvleteren 8 pours a dark brown, with a rich head that reduces down to a few millimeters after a few minutes.  But the head stays with the beer the whole way down the glass.  It's very impressive!  The aroma is delightfully complex, bringing all of it's character to the nose.  I found the flavor profile nicely masked the alcohol, so it didn't feel like you were drinking an 8% beer.  A nice bitter finish on this one.

The 12 poured even darker, and its nose gave no hints what lay beneath.  Sweetness rode the front of the liquid, followed by caramel and roasted malts.  No real bitterness to my tongue, but the variety of flavors again masked the alcohol -- this one at just over 10%.  It reminded me of a stronger version of Dogfish Head's Raison D'être. Totally worth the €6.75 for the bottle, and please try it if you get the opportunity.

But, I'll admit it, having had Ommegang's Three Philosopher's, I'm not sure I've ever tasted a better quadrupel.  And Maredsous's much easter to find Dubbel is, IMHO, as fine a dubbel as Westvleteren.  Not as uinque, I'll grant you.

I guess if you get the opportunity to try the Westvletern, take it, savor it, enjoy it, and remember that you're tasting what few get to.  But if it's not the best beer in the world, don't beat yourself up over it -- you're not alone.

A short walk later, and we retire to the hotel at around 9ish.  Tomorrow, we check out, and make our way to Brussels!

Pics here.